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Chill out with these cold treats in the St. Louis area - By Joe Holleman

Jun 26, 2009

St. Louis Post Dispatch Article
Printed June 26, 2009
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Chill out with these cold treats in the St. Louis area
St Louis Missouri Frozen Ice Cream Treat
ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

Take the major dessert groups — ice cream, pie, cookies, cake and candy — and make me choose just one?

Adios, Almond Joys. Ta-ta, tiramisu. Ciao, chocolate chips. Later, lemon meringue.

Give me that cold and creamy concoction that has been around for some 2,000 years. I can't speak for everyone, but I scream for it on a regular basis.

There is no such thing as bad ice cream, just some that's better than others.


That's why the Life Sherpa, in his infinite gastronomic wisdom, volunteered to guide the new kid on the block, Evan Benn of York, Pa., on a tasting tour of the area's best frozen assets. Considering that July is National Ice Cream Month, we thought it wise to get our research out of the way early.

Keep in mind that this was not a contest, or a ranking: It's all good.

Consider these "Heaven's Half-Dozen."



CROWN CANDY KITCHEN
1401 St. Louis Avenue, St. Louis 314-621-9650 Map and more information

Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday
Claim to fame: The venerable candy/malt shop has been in town for close to 100 years. The Karandzieff brothers still run the business with gruff efficiency, making their own ice cream and candy — not to mention the "Heart-Stopping BLT." For the first-timer, we went with the store's iconic treat.

Chocolate-Banana Malt
Price: $4.25
Sherpa says: The bananas are hearty enough to hold their own with the rich chocolate flavor. And just looking at that glistening, frosty metal container (which will fill your old-fashioned soda glass three times) cools you right off.
Newbie says: The big, fresh-banana taste melds perfectly with creamy chocolate ice cream. The malt adds a deep, extra layer of flavor. After refilling my glass twice, I still didn't get to the bottom of the shake. Delicious.



PAUL'S DONUTS & BLUE SKY CREAMERY
1289 Jungermann Road, St. Peters 636-447-8836 Map and more information

Hours: 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Claim to fame: Paul's, which offers drive-through doughnut service, has managed to grab hold of two of nature's finest snacks, fresh homemade doughnuts and premium ice cream, and bring them together under one spoon. With its early hours, this redefines breakfast of champions.

Apple Pie à la Mode Donut Sundae
Price: $3.75
Sherpa says: A perfect blend of tart and sweet. The doughnut is the real bonus here: light, but substantial; savory, but not greasy. The perfect breakfast alternative to biscuits and gravy.
Newbie says: Cinnamon-toast ice cream atop an applesauce doughnut, with apple topping, caramel and freshly whipped cream for good measure? It was clear after a few bites that the doughnut sundae earned a top spot in this fine group. Have it with a cup of coffee, and your day is bound to be a good one.



SERENDIPITY
8130 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves 314-962-2700 Map and more information

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily (opens at noon Sunday)
Claim to fame: This little shop in the Old Orchard section of Webster Groves makes interesting flavors and irresistible ice cream. Just ask the students of nearby Nerinx Hall. The menu has all the standards along with some adventurous flavors, such as "Blow Pop Ice Cream," which just won a National Ice Cream Association award. We felt adventuresome when we ordered:

Nana's Strudel Sundae
Price: $6.50
Sherpa says: One of the best, but not widely available, ice cream flavors is cinnamon. Take a big scoop, add apple slivers, caramel sauce, toasted pecans and serve it in a waffle-cone bowl and you have a sundae that you'll have more than once.
Newbie says: Nana, you had me at "cinnamon ice cream." It was so good that the extras — whipped cream, pecans, cherry on top — left me wanting more of the main attraction. Free Lactaid tablets at the cash register are a nice touch.



TED DREWES
6726 Chippewa Street, St. Louis 314-481-2652 Map and more information
4224 South Grand Boulevard, St. Louis (summer only) 314-352-7376 Map and more information

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Claim to fame: Don't be put off by the long lines at the unassuming white wooden custard stand; your order's up before you can say "Crater Copernicus." The concretes are justifiably famous (yes, you really can turn them upside down — quickly), but we went for one of Ted's fabulous combo sundaes. Also recommended: the Fox Treat (hot fudge, raspberries and macadamia nuts) and the Teddad's, vanilla custard blended with another standout St. Louis confection, Dad's Perfect Scotch Oatmeal Cookies. Yum.

Cardinal Sin Sundae
Price: $2.40 (regular)
Sherpa says: It simply doesn't get any better than this. The sweet and creamy custard topped with rich hot fudge is good by itself, but the tart cherries give it a mouth rush that takes it to the next level.
Newbie says: I devoured this so fast I almost lost a finger. The best we tasted. The custard was thick and smooth, like soft-serve ice cream on steroids. I'll be back.



VELVET FREEZE
7355 West Florissant Avenue, Jennings 314-381-2384 Map and more information

Hours: 2 to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday
Claim to fame: For years, Velvet Freeze was the areawide ice cream parlor. (Remember the "Teen Time Limit" signs in the stores?) It was as much a St. Louis tradition as So-Good potato chips and Vess cream soda. This is the only one that remains.

Double Scoop Cone/Gold Coast and Swiss Chocolate
Price: $3.69
Sherpa says: Sweet memories flooded back as the ice cream dripped from the cone onto my fingers (definitely out of practice). The almost-black Gold Coast chocolate on top of the bittersweet Swiss chocolate had been my double-scoop choice as a kid, and it still is. It does my heart good to know there is still a Velvet Freeze.
Newbie says: I got mine in a cup, which flagged me as an outsider. The Gold Coast scoop was deeply chocolatey, but the Swiss chocolate was a standout, with the nibs of bitter chocolate giving it an ideal texture.



WEST END CREAMERY
8205 West Main Street, Belleville 618-398-9800 Map and more information

Hours: Noon to 9 p.m. daily (until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday)
Claim to fame: Tucked in a tiny group of shops on the city's west side, this plain, but pleasant and bright, shop serves Edy's ice cream, waffle cones with added decorations and some inventive sundaes, such as this one.

Grasshopper Sundae
Price: $3.69 (small)
Sherpa says: The mint chocolate chip ice cream and creme de menthe provide a chilly and tasty contrast to the sweetness of the hot fudge. Crumbled Oreos are a good addition (to almost any dessert).
Newbie says: St. Patrick's Day in a cup. The bright-green ice cream had a high chocolate chip count — a pleasant distraction from the bright-green mint sauce.
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